For me, as for many travellers, food is the fastest way to learn about a new country: culture, language, history, geography and even economics are all expressed through the kitchen and then on the plate. So when landing somewhere new, I try to book a cooking class early on, preferably one that includes a market or shopping tour. In my first month in San Miguel as a visitor, I tore through most of the local Mexican cooking schools, and so have a decent mastery of market Spanish and several versions of salsa roja and verde.
But when we moved here for part of the year (that would be the cold part back in Canada) I began to crave a different experience. Mexican cooking is very regional, so once you have been exposed to the local specialities, you are pretty much done. Most of the Mexican classes are filled with tourists, so I was unlikely to extend my network of “like minded” residents in my new home.(Definition of “like minded”: folks who get nervous if their meals are not planned four to six sittings ahead) For six months of the year, I also craved the flavours of my favourite ethnic foods: Thai, Korean, Vietnamese, Cantonese and Sichuan. There are not many good ethnic restaurants here, I thought I might put those Far East cooking classes to work. But where to get the ingredients?
The heart of the kitchen
So I was delighted to discover Michael and Valarie Coon’s global cooking school, Insideroute. Set in the fabulously equipped kitchen of their San Antonio home,(I have a serious case of range and fridge envy), their specialty classes focus on cuisines from all over the world, with the exception of Mexico (The couple do lead very popular culinary tours to other parts of Mexico, and you can email them here to get on the list for classes and for tours: insideroute@aol.com
I have taken quite a few classes from them, (Thai, Vietnamese,Korean , Low Country and more) and they are great fun and very social events. With Michael as chef/teacher and Valarie as charming and welcoming hostess, he manages to impart culinary knowledge while ensuring that we are all engaged and participating at whatever level we feel most comfortable. For some, that’s just sipping an agua fresca but if you want to, don an apron and grab a ladle.
One of the ancillary benefits of attendance is that Michael (and his assistant, former caterer and long time resident Holly
Holly plating the Polenta
Sims) know where to get everything to do with food. From the best sources for free range chicken to what specific aisle and shelf the kosher salt is on at the local superstore, to what Asian ingredients are available where and which have to be ordered through Amazon, they are an encyclopedic culinary resource. ( Next month, expect my post on local sourcing of ingredients) Michael is also an obsessive collector of cookbooks: I think that the living room ceiling threatens to collapse under the weight of his collection above. Here is one of my favourite moments: he was giving us a tour of the rooftop garden, and walking by a container, casually pulled out a stalk for each of us and said “here’s some lemon grass, take it home, put it in a bucket, water well, and it will grow like a weed”. Like all true cooks, he loves to share his passion.
I will definitely be writing more about Michael and Valarie’s entertaining classes, but this post is about a very special evening: a tribute from Michael to the recently deceased and immensely mourned Italian cookbook author and teacher, Marcella Hazan. When Michael was at the Culinary Institute of America or CIA in California, he arranged a book signing and presentation for her. She was to take questions, but I guess her reputation for being a culinary curmudgeon silenced the room. Michael decided to break the ice, asking her “Do you always cook with extra virgin olive oil?”. In front of several hundred people, she flatly replied : “That’s a stupid question.”
I expect some nervous laughter ensued, but perhaps that opening led to their ongoing relationship. Here is a sample from their FB chats, offering encouraging words to Michael when they moved to Mexico and started a cooking school:
Ciao Michael. Thirty-four years ago I decided to open a cooking school in Bologna. I had no examples to follow, but it all turned out pretty well and if I hadn’t become too old to continue I’d probably still have students there. It takes optimism and a thick head to undertake something like that and I know what you are facing and I admire you for doing it in Mexico. If travel hadn’t become nearly forbidding for me I’d come down to see you. I wish you well. Victor, who is always grateful to you for putting him onto Global (knives), also sends his best. Marcella
And yes, she always cooked with extra virgin olive oil!
Ben’s favourite course of the evening was the “Grilled Portobello Mushrooms & Polenta and Michael kindly supplied his recipe here.
Silky Polenta with a Rich Mushroom Sauce
Grilled Portobello Mushrooms & Polenta
¾ cup finely ground cornmeal
2 tablespoons mascarpone cheese
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon finely chopped, mixed, fresh herbs (such as rosemary, thyme, and marjoram)
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2. Gradually whisk in the cornmeal, and cook over medium heat, stirring, until liquid is absorbed and the consistency is quite thick, about 15 to 20 minutes.
3. Turn off the heat and add the mascarpone, Parmesan cheese, and chopped herbs.
4. Add salt and pepper to taste. Cover and keep in a warm place.
2 cups water
1 cup white wine
2 cups shallots, peeled and finely chopped
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
2 tablespoons butter or olive oil
1 cup balsamic vinegar (1 tablespoon used in sauce, remaining reduced for Grilled Mushroom Caps)
1 tablespoon cornstarch, mixed with 2 tablespoons water
2 cups heavy cream
Salt, and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Parmesan cheese, shaved (for garnish)
2. Bring the water to boiling with ½ cup of the white wine in a small saucepan. Add mushroom stems, reduce heat, and simmer for about 10 minutes.
3. In a separate small saucepan, over medium heat, cook the shallots and garlic in butter until soft in consistency.
4. Strain the liquid from the mushrooms and add to the shallot mixture.
5. Add the rest of the wine and 1 tablespoon of the balsamic vinegar.
6. Add the cornstarch mixture. Cook about 5 minutes. Stir in the cream.
7. Add salt and pepper to taste. Keep the sauce warmed on the side.
2. While mushrooms are grilling, cook remaining balsamic vinegar in a small saucepan for about 5 minutes, until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon.
2. Place a mushroom cap on top. (Mushroom caps can be thickly sliced instead of being served whole.)
3. Ladle Shallot Sauce over the Grilled Mushrooms and Polenta, then garnish with freshly shaved Parmesan cheese and a drizzle of the balsamic vinegar reduction.
The Road Traveled Well 
Discovering a superb cooking school in Mexico that specializes in cuisine other than Mexican takes talent and a sense of adventure. Congratulations job well done! On my next visit to San Miguel I look forward experiencing a cooking lesson or two at Insideroute,